Monday, April 2, 2012

Brick Oven Inservice

I include an inservice visit with most of my brick oven installations.  This insures that the first major event with the oven is done with the maximum safety, care, and enjoyment
I enjoy them.  This is the moment when I and my customers experience the full meaning of the project we have collaborated on.
I can also show them some 'tricks': management of the fire, testing of dome temperature, timing and introduction of the dough as pizza or bread, and stoking of the live fire once the pizza is in.



I go away knowing that the oven will be a smooth part of their cooking life.  I also go away having helped to bake fabulous food... and eat some of it.
For experienced bakers, the inservice gives me a chance to see how they use the oven and I learn from them.
Win-win.

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Cast Refractory Wood-Fired Ovens

residential brick oven prior to enclosure
Modern (the last 50 years) restaurants and residential wood-fired ovens have gone to cast-refractory materials.  As a builder of real (true) fire brick wood-fired ovens, I view this trend as a structural and aesthetic downgrading of the 'appliance'. This is akin to the time when wood cook stoves were produced using sheet metal instead of cast iron.  The life-span and functionality of the stoves took a dive as well as the visual beauty of the objects.
Cast Refractory Failure
I have witnessed products from a leading international supplier of cast-refractory ovens.  Repeatedly, the components arrived at customer's homes, ready to install and finish,  BROKEN, CRACKED, or FLAWED.  This led to delays and immediate disappointment.
My decision to build brick ovens solely from true fire brick allows me to represent the finished oven as traditional, durable, and containing enough thermal mass for long baking periods for little more cost than the 'kits' plus labor and detailing.
Granted, some of the high-end cast refractory ovens have elements that insure durability.  The single major structural difference lies in the sectional construction of the cast ovens.  The cast segments that comprise the dome rely on the supporting sections NEVER failing. Once, for any number of reasons, a segment fails the entire oven is useless.  Ovens that are finished with elaborate stone exteriors would be very expensive to replace.
mouth and first 3 chains of brick oven

A brick oven is built with each ring (known as a chain), locking itself by gravity and the keystone (the last center stone at the crown) locks the entire dome together. These ovens expand and contract evenly when heated.  The dome shape has integral strength and doesn't rely on external support.
Unloading my portable oven
My portable models have gone down the worst roads in New England without failure.

 Lastly, a cast refractory wood-fired oven, is not a brick oven.  Superior Clay for instance, advertises, "Imagine baking bread or pizza in your own authentic brick oven."  Except, when you go to their website, you see a cast refractory kit that is neither authentic OR brick. 
 A true brick oven is something special in my mind, a connection to the past and a reliable cooking device for the foreseeable future.

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Brick Oven Work Space

We may think of the brick oven as an entity on its own.  However, traditional and current ovens that work best incorporate food preparation workspace very close to the mouth of the oven.
Ovens in Pompeii, throughout Italy, France, Germany, Spain, and elsewhere have built-in niches where the milder heat radiated from the oven can rise bread, or where products related to the baked food can be laid out.
This matches the current design of outdoor and indoor kitchen spaces that have ovens. Because there are so many foods that can use the qualities of a wood-fired brick oven, an ample workspace is not only recommended but, given the social magnet effect of brick ovens, is necessary for enjoyable cooking.

Monday, March 26, 2012

Brick Oven Cost

[This NOTE added on November 19, 2018]
I encourage all people interested in cooking in a wood-fired oven to explore the options that fit their budget, time, and ability.  If, after reading this post, you find that building one yourself, or building with less costly materials will get you an oven sooner, then check the posts relevant to your situation. If you have some abilities and/or materials and would like assistance from TBO in building your oven, please contact me.  My business is divided into two distinct parts: the complete craft of building brick ovens AND providing information and encouragement so that you have an oven sooner than later.  Either one works for me.  I also want the oven you get to work for you.  Ciao,
David Neufeld- True Brick Ovens

Please also check a post of September 19. 2016 for comparisons with other makers.
[THIS IS AN UPDATED-UPDATED VERSION OF A FORMER POST, REVISED ON NOVEMBER 22, 2015]

3000 year old oven in Pompeii
As this is one of the most viewed posts on this blog, I feel compelled to update it as new and important information is available.
Our experience with major purchases tells us that we can expect our cars and houses to need major repairs within fifteen years (max) of purchase.  Brick ovens built as they were built a thousand years ago, last forty times longer.  Except for high-tech insulation materials that conserve fuel, the ovens I build are like those ancient ones.
It's been  years since I attempted to give those interested in purchasing a brick oven a solid bead on the costs.
In those years, I have built many brick ovens and consulted on others.  The answer to the question is...


What exactly do you want?  NOT a true answer, I admit, but it is the most important question that needs answering.

Brewster Academy 54" Oven by TBO
Because I build custom brick ovens, made for individuals and their unique locations and requirements, answering a group of questions will lead directly and effectively to an oven with a specific price tag.  It will, more importantly, result in an oven that works perfectly.

To explore this and obtain a personal response from me, go to: http://truebrickovens.com/ and click on "Your Checklist".




As of Fall 2015, I began giving exact costs for various sizes cores.  
Pulling the face arch form to complete the core. Yeah, it's California.

custom cut bricks
Core ready for enclosure


An oven core consists of block insulation under the oven, the oven floor and dome, the mouth and face arches, the insulation over the dome, and the flue.


Cores cost $8000.00 for a 36" interior dome.  A 42" core is $10K; a 48" core is $12K.  Etc.  Larger ovens can be built in exact increments with associated increase in cost.  Because these are custom domes, I do not need to build standard sizes.
Recently, a customer compared the cost of my building the oven to a high-end kit shipped from (fill in the blank...other country).  My on-site build was competitive.  The result is a true brick oven built from U.S. bricks, by a U.S. artisan mason.

Outdoor oven, kitchen and terrace by TBO
Factors that alter the cost are: locations requiring sub-floor reinforcing, difficult to reach locations, and places where codes require specific modifications.  I've dealt with all these conditions easily.


Here are a few categories of ovens and uses to consider:
Brick Oven in Conservatory
  1. The residential or home brick oven.  Usually 36" interior diameter unless you have crazy-big parties; then 42" or bigger.
  2. The outdoor brick oven, often part of an outdoor entertainment and kitchen space.  My longtime company: North Star Stoneworks northstarstoneworks.com is able to build out from the oven and integrate it into the landscape.
  3. The indoor brick oven, a smart choice in rugged climates where rain, snow, bugs, wind, and local gangs or neighbors might be a problem.  These oven can fit into conventional kitchens by placing the volume of the oven in a bumped-out space adjacent to the kitchen. Code-compliant, stainless steel insulated chimneys allow for ease of running exhaust vapors.  Indoor ovens by TBO now have make-up air channels so negative draft issues and air infiltration is eliminated.
  4. Bakery brick ovens capable of producing hundreds of loaves a day and remaining at temperature for long periods.  These ovens have extra mass in the dome and extra insulation under the floor and above the dome.  They are used to cook large amounts of food ranging from pizza to roasts, bread to slow-cooked casseroles.
  5. Portable brick ovens suited for catering business that want to cook on site.
    Portable 48" oven for 50 Local Restaurant in Maine (2015)

The above five categories begin to determine cost.  The other factor is style.  Ovens range from exterior finish that is very simple to elaborate details such as stone roofs, special tile and brickwork, stone, and even frescoes.

What I can do for anyone inquiring (see website TBO Checklist) is respond to a detailed request that includes photos and desired features.  If after talking with you, we have a clear idea of the oven you want, an exact cost amount will follow.  Then you'll know the true cost.

Please note: Factories, like those that turn out hundreds of cast refractory shells that you can buy, are able to put a dollar amount on their stamped-out product because they are all identical.  The hidden costs of finishing the job and the longevity of the oven are not mentioned.

(Added on July 8, 2014)
Given the attention this particular post has generated, I'll tag another factor in cost onto the information given:
TBO 54"  at Pietree Orchard
Built right, a brick oven is one of the most cost-effective investments you can make.  Built wrong, it can be a heart-break.  That is why so many of the posts on this blog offer information on building an oven.  Even if you don't build it yourself, YOU need to know what goes into a successful brick oven project.  You or your local mason, however well-intentioned, may not have ever built a successful brick oven.  The technical details of brick ovens, while not 'rocket science', are specific to this device.  There are dozens of books, and Youtubes, for products that claim to be 'brick ovens'.
The builders of the ovens in Pompeii and throughout Europe and north America (representing more than three thousand years of experience) perfected the domed brick oven.  Every other design is a post-industrial version.  Enough said.  Good luck.


The earlier version of this post is shown below:

During home and garden shows I have hundreds of people talk with me about brick ovens.  Although many (mostly guys) wanted to build one themselves and I am happy to supply know-how (as past blog posts will show), the most frequent question asked was, "How much do they cost?"
This is a legitimate question for anyone. Naturally, the smaller the oven the less the cost. Because I, as a mason have had negative experience with pre-cast ovens, I build solely out of fire brick, I can say that compared to some pre-cast wood-fired ovens, my brick ovens are competitive.

But people want hard numbers, so I bracket the costs, pointing to small ovens (30" interior diameter) with simple finishes. Larger ovens, portable ovens, interior ovens, and more extensive projects like designing an entire outdoor entertainment space or room addition tend to be priced individually because the detailing is so specific.

Anyone checking the marketplace for pre-cast refractory kits and custom brick ovens will find the range begins at about $2k (excluding the really cheap stuff) and tops out in the $20K range.

Hand-crafted brick ovens take available common materials (fire brick, refractory mortar and insulating products, concrete block, brick, stone, and heavy countertop stone) and make brick ovens that are unique to your environment and desires.

I find that people who are already avid cooks see the wood-fired brick oven as the holy-grail of chefdom, and for good reason.  They may already have a $6000.00 range in their kitchen. This is where cost comparisons become fair.

What will you spend? Think of the genuine brick oven as in the price range of a used car; one that will never need fixing, or an oil change, the windshield won't crack, or the tires wear out. It will become the center of your cooking life and each time you open the door, great food will come out.

This is what I said two years ago.  Compare to the first part of this post for similarities and differences.

POST, POST Script:
Hundreds of products have emerged on the market as a result of exploding interest in brick ovens.  Each of these products attempts to give the consumer the 'brick oven' experience at the lowest cost.  This is good, in some ways.  Not everyone can build or afford a true brick oven.  Inventing ways of emulating the cooking qualities of a masonry mass is the job of industry.   It's been done with virtually every device ever invented.  As tempting as it is for me to become a 'dealer' for a company offering the manufactured wood-fired oven, I will continue to take pride and pleasure in building custom brick ovens in the tradition of true artisan masons.
Stay tuned for an announcement of brick oven building workshops that will allow people to have a brick oven built while hosting a workshop, thus saving them part of the cost, giving them a hands-on part in the process, and allowing others to learn the basics of brick oven masonry.  

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Meet the Brick Oven Mason

There are number of ways you can know the mason who can build a brick oven.
#1 You can be that mason.
#2 You can invite the mason to your place.
#3 You can meet him or her at a showcase event such as a 'home and garden show'

If you live within driving range of Durham, New Hampshire you can meet me next weekend, March 24 and 25 at the Whitemore Center of UNH for the Seacoast Home and Garden Show
www.homegardenflowershow.com/index.cfm?...seacoast.home

This is where I set up a booth and field questions from interested attendees.  Although a number of brick oven projects have resulted from people meeting me and talking about their dream of a brick oven, I especially enjoy meeting other brick oven owners and bakers, curious newcomers to the world of brick ovens and people who have experienced first-hand the cultures that have brick ovens at the center of their culinary life.

As a collector/archivist of historical brick oven information, these events have often led to a window into the deep impression that brick ovens have made on older immigrants.

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Beautiful Food


Oven Roasted Lamb and Polenta
My posts usually feature brick oven info or lore and also brick oven restaurants or events.  I have claimed that one avenue to beautiful food is the brick oven. However, any foodie knows that there are many avenues and sometimes taking a side street results in unexpected treasures.
Pacific Catch
On rare occasions, I have been treated to beautiful food.  Where most restaurants (and home kitchen chefs) pay attention to quantity and expectations of flavor, beautiful food is both artfully presented and extraordinary in flavor.  These are the times when surprise bursts on your palate.
Pacific Catch Cabo Shrimp Taco
Two such moments in the past six months are:
Portland, Maine's Cinque Terre/Vignola Restaurant's Harvest Dinner at Grandview Farm www.cinqueterremaine.com/ and Pacific Catch pacificcatch.com on Chestnut Street in San Francisco.

Amazing Deserts at Harvest Dinner




Friday, March 16, 2012

Two Stage Pizza Dough Rollers



Generally, on principle, as a rule...no actually... Okay, if you're making many many pizzas or flatbreads, a two-stage dough roller is magic.

I first watched this being used in La Taverna Etrusca in Orvieto, Italy.  The proprietor took me out back when I showed him my biz card with the brick oven photo on it.  We also ate at his place twice because the pizza he made was not just thin; it was 'carta musica' or 'page of music' (that thin).
I showed this to a couple of caterers I've built ovens for and they had to have one.
Using part or all high-gluten flour, sold as Caputo now available from King Arthur as 'Bread Flour' allows the dough to stretch to near transparent thinness.

Of course, the alternative is rolling the dough super-thin by hand, which for home consumption is what I do on principle...generally.